The bus from Kalaw to Bagan. One of the most uncomfortable bus rides of our lives. 12 hours, only one stop, nobody knew how much longer or whether we were going to stop. The seats were tiny and two people had to squash into each one, plus people were sitting on stools in the corridor.

Myang Myang Su. One of the nicest people in the world. He ran (but didn't own) the Eden II guesthouse and was in charge of procuring our shan noodle breakfast from the market every morning.